Half-pi sunshine

When Sparkleduck Spirit miniskeins arrived, they got divebombed by eager knitters, elbowing each other aside to get to them, myself no exception!

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They cry out to be turned into something lovely and to me a half-pi shawl in the
orange was going to be a ray of sunshine.  I launched right in, knitting up a storm before stopping to think.  Here is what I did (with thanks to the invaluable Holly Chayes), and what I would do if I had stopped to think before satisfying the cast-on itch!

Yarn:  One Sparkleduck Spirit miniskein set (6 x 20g/85m merino/nylon)
Needles: 4mm, 120cm circular needle. 4mm DPNs are optional but very helpful for icord edging.
Gauge: (Postblocking) stocking stitch: 30st x 36r to 10cm
Finished size: 45 x 17” (could have been bigger if I hadn’t wasted some. Not exactly semicircular due to stretching it more sideways whilst blocking.)

Pattern knitted (with icord border)

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First stitch slipped purlwise on every row.

Changing yarn: when it comes time to end a ball and start a new one, by all
means do so in the middle of a row (either knit a few stitches in a row using
both yarns before dropping the old one, or
 Russian join them together).  I started off changing them just at the edge but ended up wasting a lot of yarn as the shawl grew.  

Using the palest yarn, cast on 7sts.
R1: Sl1, purl to end.
R2: Sl1, K1, [yo, k1] to last 2sts, k2. (10sts)
Stocking stitch 2 rows. Purl the yarnovers through the back of the loop if you want to slightly close up the eyelets (as I did).  Purl them normally if you want big eyelets.  If you want no eyelets, substitute all yo with m1 on the previous row.
R5: Sl1, P1, [yo, p1] to last 2sts, p2. (16sts)
Stocking stitch 4 rows. Knit the yarn overs through the back of the loop if you want to slightly close up the holes (as I did).  Knit them normally if you want big eyelets, or substitute with m1.  
R10: Sl1, K1, [yo, k1] to last 2sts, k2. (28sts)
Stocking stitch 8 rows.
R19: Sl1, P1, [yo, p1] to last 2sts, p2. (52sts)
Stocking stitch 16 rows.
R36: Sl1, K1, [yo, k1] to last 2sts, k2. (100sts)
Stocking stitch 32 rows.
R69: Sl1, P1, [yo, p1] to last 2sts, p2. (196sts)
Stocking stitch 64 rows.
R134: Sl1, K1, [yo, k1] to last 2sts, k2. (388sts)
Stocking stitch until yarn almost runs out, leaving 10g for icord edging.  If you have enough yarn, continue on for 128 rows before the next increase row.  (I stopped at 34 rows after the increase, having knitted just a couple of rows with my last miniskein, but could have done a few more).

To make the shawl even larger – next increase rows will be on purl row 263 (stitch count 772), and knit row 520 (stitch count 1540).

Cast off loosely using the Russian lace cast off (purl two stitches together, move the resulting stitch back onto the left-hand needle, purl two stitches together, continue to end).  Do this on a knit row to make the shawl curl slightly to the front.

The cast off edge after blocking (the points are due to being stretched on blocking pins).

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Applied spaced-out icord edging to the straight edge – cast on four stitches onto a DPN, pick up stitch from the rightmost corner of the shawl, RS facing (5sts).
[Slide stitches to end of DPN, knit 3, k2togtbl (4st).
Slide stitches to end of DPN, knit 4, pick up & knit next stitch of shawl
(working in towards the centre then out the other side) (5st)] repeat almost to
leftmost corner.

About to finish a pick-up row

image

The icord will need to be bound off, leaving that right until the last stitch
has been picked up and worked into leads an untidy bulge over the edge of the
shawl so start decreasing a couple of rows before:

…slide stitches to end of DPN, knit 3, k2togtbl (4st).
Slide stitches to end of DPN, k2, k2tog, pick up penultimate stitch of shawl (4st)
Slide stitches to end of DPN, k2tog, k2togtbl (2st).
Slide stitches to end of DPN, k2tog, pick up last stitch of shawl (2st)
Cast off.

Wash & block, weave in ends.

Icord edging – RS view

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Pattern for next time

I’d skip the icord border in favour of a garter stitch border: easier, quicker, neater, lies flat and wastes no yarn: bigger shawl showing more gradient!

Always slip the first stitch, knit the next two. Always knit the last three stitches.

Using the palest yarn, cast on 7sts.
R1: Sl1, k2, p1, k3.
R2: Sl1, k1, [k1, yo] to last 3 sts, k3. (10sts)
Stocking stitch 2 rows. Purl the yarnovers through the back of the loop if you want to slightly close up the eyelets (as I did).  Purl them normally if you want big eyelets.  If you want no eyelets, substitute all yo with m1 on the previous row.
R5: Sl1, k2, [p1, yo] to last 3 sts, k3. (16sts)
Stocking stitch 4 rows. Knit the yarn overs through the back of the loop if you want to slightly close up the holes (as I did).  Knit them normally if you want big eyelets.   If you want no eyelets, substitute all yo with m1 on the previous row.
R10: Sl1, k1, [k1, yo] to last 3 sts, k3. (28sts)
Stocking stitch 8 rows.
R19: Sl1, k2, [p1, yo] to last 3 sts, k3. (52sts)
Stocking stitch 16 rows.
R36: Sl1, k1, [k1, yo] to last 3 sts, k3. (100sts)
Stocking stitch 32 rows.
R69: Sl1, k2, [p1, yo] to last 3 sts, k3. (196sts)
Stocking stitch 64 rows.
R134: Sl1, k1, [k1, yo] to last 3 st, k3. (388sts)
Stocking stitch until yarn almost runs out.  If you have enough yarn, continue on for 128 rows before the next increase row.

To make the shawl even larger – next increase rows will be on purl row 263 (stitch count 772), and knit row 520 (stitch count 1540).

Cast off loosely using the Russian lace cast off (purl two stitches together, put the resulting stitch back onto the left-hand needle, purl two stitches together, continue to end).  Do this on a knit row to make the shawl curl slightly to the front.

Wash and block, weave in ends. Bask in compliments.

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